The Rock “Verre Bouteille”
The best view of the island ?
Drive up the hill to the port, then head toward Rivière des Galets and climb up to Dos d’Âne: it’s a 45-minute drive from the residence to reach this hilltop village, one of the few places from which you can look down on Mafate without having to hike for hours.
The trail winds along the cliff face, passes a few metal ladders, and then opens up onto the Roche Verre Bouteille. The name comes from Creole: the mineral inclusions dotting the rock reminded the elders of the shards of glass that were once embedded in the cement at the top of the surrounding walls to protect the houses. Visible from all over northern Mafate, this rock served as a landmark for locating Dos d’Âne.
From the ridge, the view offers the best of both worlds: on one side, the Mafate cirque in all its depth, with the Rivière des Galets a thousand meters below; on the other, the farmlands of Dos d’Âne, Port Bay, and the ocean. It’s probably the best reward for your effort in terms of panoramic views on the entire island.
Set out early in the morning to enjoy the cool air and a clear sky; after 10 a.m., clouds begin to rise from the cirque.
The terrain becomes very slippery after rain, and the Cap Noir area has seen several administrative closures in recent years: check the ONF’s map of closed trails before heading up.